![]() | Dalton HighwayGuide 2020 |
Visitor Guide to Dalton Highway in Alaska. Published by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM).
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Bureau of Land Management
2021
The
2020 /
Dalt
Dalto
on
Dalton
H i g h w a y
Visitor Guide
Experience America’s Arctic
Road Conditions . . . pages 6-7
Points of Interest . . . page 8
Bear Safety . . . page 16
Contents
Trip Planning
4
Preparing and Safety
6
Mileage Chart
11-14
Maps
23
Planning Your Trip
Exploring
8-11
Points of Interest
15
An Icebound Land
17
Watching Wildlife
18
Recreation
Facilities and Services
5
Visitor Centers
18
Campgrounds
The Dalton Highway
BLM Coordinators: John Rapphahn and
Ultimate Road Adventure
The Dalton Highway is a rough, industrial road that begins 84 miles
(134 km) north of Fairbanks and ends 414 miles (662 km) later in
Deadhorse, the industrial camp at Prudhoe Bay. It provides a rare
opportunity to traverse a remote, unpopulated part of Alaska to the
very top of the continent. Traveling this farthest-north road involves
real risks and challenges. This publication will help you decide
whether to make the journey, how to prepare, and how to enjoy your
experience. Please read this information carefully.
Know Before You Go
• There is no public access to the Arctic Ocean from Deadhorse.
You must be on an authorized tour. Call toll-free 1-877-474-3565;
in Fairbanks, 474-3565.
• There are no medical facilities between Fairbanks and Deadhorse,
a distance of 500 miles (800 km). For emergency information,
see the back page.
• Food, gas, and vehicle repair service are extremely limited. See page 5.
• There are limited cell phone service or public Internet connection
between Fairbanks and Deadhorse. Contact your cell phone provider.
• In 2019 the BLM hauled 20 tons of Dalton Highway trash to
Fairbanks, the nearest landfill. Please do your part by reducing
waste and returning to Fairbanks with what you brought.
Kelly Egger
Contributors: Craig McCaa, Cindy Hamfler,
Zach Million and Erin Julianus
Produced and Designed by
All photos courtesy of BLM unless
otherwise noted.
Printed on recycled paper using soy-based inks.
The Dalton Highway Visitor Guide is published
by the Alaska Geographic Association
in cooperation with the Bureau of Land
Management. This free publication is made
possible by Alaska Geographic bookstore sales.
©Alaska Geographic
Cover photo: Fall colors around Nutirwik Creek by
AIVC Staff
Arctic Interagency Visitor Center
The award-winning Arctic Interagency Visitor Center introduces visitors from
around the world to the unique and extreme environment of the Arctic. Explore
interpretive exhibits, walk the nearby nature trails, and talk with our knowledgeable
staff to learn more about the region’s history, natural environment, and recreation
opportunities. The visitor center is a partnership between the Bureau of Land
Management, the National Park Service, and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, and
hosts an Alaska Geographic Association bookstore.
Open Daily from May 24 to September 16, from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Phone: 907-678-5209 or 907-678-2014 (summer only).
www.blm.gov/learn/interpretive-centers/aivc
FREE digital public maps - www.blm.gov/maps/georeferenced-PDFs
2
Built for Black Gold
In 1968, oil was discovered at Prudhoe Bay on Alaska’s
North Slope. Excitement was high at the prospect of
new money to fuel Alaska’s boom-and-bust economy.
The nation was in the throes of an energy crisis and
pushed for an 800-mile-long (1290 km) pipeline. But
first, Native land claims had to be settled, permits
granted, environmental safeguards designed, and a road
built to get workers and supplies north to the oil field.
When finally approved, construction of the TransAlaska Pipeline was run like a wartime project—
money was no object and time was of the essence.
The weather conditions, terrain, and the immensity
of the project were all extreme. Engineers overcame
permafrost, mountain ranges, and the relentless flow
of the Yukon River in the process. Incredibly, the Haul
Road was completed in just five months and the pipeline
in three years (1974-77). The previously remote Arctic
was changed forever.
Haul Road or Highway?
At first, the highway was called the Haul Road because
almost everything supporting oil development was
“hauled” on tractor-trailer rigs to its final destination.
In 1981, the State of Alaska named the highway after
James W. Dalton, a lifelong Alaskan and expert in arctic
Road and pipeline workers remember the hardships of completing the
highway – long hours of extreme cold, miles of dust, shirts black with
mosquitoes, and months of exhausting work.
engineering who was involved in early oil exploration
efforts on the North Slope.
The highway was open only to commercial traffic until
1981, when the state allowed public access to Disaster
Creek at Milepost 211. In 1994, public access was
allowed all the way to Deadhorse for the first time.
Today, the Dalton Highway beckons adventurous souls
to explore a still-wild and mysterious frontier. Respect
this harsh land and appreciate the opportunity to visit a
special part of our world.
“....I trucked the Haul Road to Prudhoe a few hundred times and fished Grayling Lake and hunted the South Fork Koyukuk for 10 years in
a row. I really, really miss it—the beauty, quiet, and the freedom it brings one’s mind. It’s definitely the best mental medicine on earth.”
Marshall Casteel
Myrtle Creek, Oregon
3
Preparing for
the Long Haul
Before you leave Fairbanks
• Inspect all tires and make sure they are properly inflated
• Check all vehicle fluids
• Replace worn hoses and belts
• Empty your RV’s holding tank and fill the water tank
• Purchase groceries and supplies
Bring for your vehicle
• At least two full-sized spare tires mounted on rims
• Tire jack and tools for flat tires
• Emergency flares
• Extra gasoline, motor oil, and wiper fluid
• CB radio
Bring for yourself
• Insect repellent and head net
• Sunglasses and sunscreen
• Rain jacket and pants
• Warm clothes, including hat and gloves
• First aid kit
• Drinking water
• Ready-to-eat food
• Camping gear, including sleeping bag
• Personal medications
• Toilet paper and hand sanitizer
• Garbage bags
Safety Tips
Phones and Internet
•
•
•
Summer temperatures can occasionally reach the high
80s F (27-30°C) south of the Brooks Range and average
in the 50s F (10-15°C) in Coldfoot. Thunderstorms are
common in early summer, especially between Fairbanks
and the Yukon River, and may bring lightning and sudden squalls. In general, June and July are drier months, but
rainy days are frequent throughout the summer.
Weather on the North Slope is frequently windy, foggy,
and cold. Snow can occur at any time of the year, especially
from the Brooks Range north. In Deadhorse, average
summer temperatures are in the 30s and 40s F (0-5°C).
Flash Floods
Heavy or prolonged rain can cause local flash floods
anytime during the summer. Running water may cover the
road or wash out culverts and bridges. Do not attempt to
cross flooded areas.
Wildlife
Treat all wild animals with caution. Keep a clean camp so
you don’t attract wildlife. Do not approach or feed any
animals. Moose and muskoxen may appear tame, but can
be dangerous if approached too closely. Never get between
a cow and her calves. If moose feel threatened they will
flatten their ears, raise the hair on their neck, and may
charge. Wolves and foxes on the North Slope may carry
rabies. Avoid all contact between these animals and
yourself and your pets. See page 17 for more information
on where to look for wildlife.
Wildfires
Wildfires may burn out of control and across the highway.
Do not drive through areas of dense smoke or flames—you
There is no cell phone coverage or public Internet
could get trapped by swiftly changing conditions and find
access between Fairbanks and Deadhorse. Both are
available in Deadhorse. Coldfoot Camp has wi-fi (fee). yourself unable to reach safety.
Pay phones: You can use a calling card at the Yukon
River Camp, Coldfoot, Wiseman, and Deadhorse.
Satellite phones: Some companies in Fairbanks
rent satellite phones; check the phone directory
under radio.
Drinking Water
It’s best to bring water with you. If you must use stream
water for cooking or cleaning, treat it first by boiling
rapidly for 3-5 minutes, or by using iodine tablets or a
water filter. Giardia is widespread in Alaska waters and
is highly contagious.
Wildfires are common along the Dalton Highway.
The majority are started by lightning.
4
Weather
Visitor
Information
Centers
In Fairbanks
Morris Thompson Cultural
and Visitors Center,
Alaska Public Lands
Information Center
101 Dunkel Street, #110
Fairbanks, AK 99701
Phone: 907-459-3730
Fax: 907-459-3729
www.alaskacenters.gov/
Fairbanks.CFM
Services Are Limited
At the Yukon River
Notice: There are no public services at Department of Transportation
Yukon Crossing Visitor
Contact Station
Located on the east side of
the highway just north of
the Yukon River bridge.
No phone. Closed in winter.
In Coldfoot
Arctic Interagency
Visitor Center
Coldfoot, MP 175
Phone: 907-678-5209
Open daily from late May
to early September.
Closed in winter.
maintenance stations or Alyeska Pipeline Service Company pump stations.
Medical Facilities: There are no public or emergency medical facilities
along the Elliott or Dalton highways.
Banking: There are no banks. ATM machines are available in Deadhorse.
Most services accept major credit cards and traveler’s checks.
Groceries: There are no grocery stores along the highway. Snack food and cafés
are available at limited locations.
Phone: There is limited cell phone coverage and no public internet access from the
Elliott Highway Milepost 28 until just outside of Deadhorse.
SERVICES
Yukon Crossing
Gas
Five Mile*
D
Tire/Vehicle Repair
Coldfoot
Wiseman** Deadhorse
D
D
D
D
Restaurant
D
D
D
D
Lodging
D
D
D
D
D
Public Phone
D
D
D
D
Post Office
D
D
Shower
D
D
D
D
Water
D
D
D
Laundry
D
D
Dump Station
D
Tent Camping
D
D
RV Parking
D
D
Gift Shop/Local Crafts
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
Visitor Center/Museum
*
closed in winter
*
**
D
limited services in winter
5
Rules of the Road
Road Conditions
The road is narrow, has soft shoulders, high embankments,
and steep hills. There are lengthy stretches of gravel surface
with sharp rocks, potholes, washboard, and, depending on
the weather, clouds of dust or slick mud. Watch out for
dangerous curves and loose gravel, especially between
Livengood and the Yukon River (MP 0-56). You may
encounter snow and ice north of Coldfoot any month of
the year. Expect and prepare for all conditions.
The Dalton Highway is paved from Milepost 37 to 49 and
from Milepost 90 to 197 (Gold Creek). Beyond that there is
pavement (with breaks) from Milepost 335 (Happy Valley
airstrip) to 362. Road construction occurs in various areas
and can cause some delay.
Proposed Road Construction
aBig trucks have the right of way.
aSlow down when passing other vehicles to avoid
damaging them with flying rocks.
aAlways drive with your lights on so others can
see you.
aKeep your headlights and taillights clean so they
are visible.
aStay on the right side of the road.
aDon’t stop on bridges, hills, or curves.
aCheck your rear-view mirror regularly.
• 2020 & 2021 Dalton MP 362 - 414
• 2020 Dalton MP 115 - 126
aIf you spot wildlife, pull over to a safe location
For current road conditions:
before stopping.
• 511.alaska.gov
• www.alaskanavigator.org/fairbanks
aSlower traffic should pull over at a safe location
and allow other vehicles to pass.
Mileage Chart
Miles (km)
Fairbanks
Livengood
Yukon River
Arctic Circle
Coldfoot
Atigun Pass
Galbraith Lake
Deadhorse
Fairbanks
•
84 (134)
140 (224)
199 (318)
259 (414)
328 (525)
359 (574)
498 (797)
Livengood
84 (134)
•
56 (90)
115 (184)
175 (280)
244 (390)
275 (440)
414 (662)
Yukon River
140 (224)
56 (90)
•
59 (94)
119 (190)
188 (301)
219 (350)
358 (573)
Arctic Circle
199 (318)
115 (184)
59 (94)
•
60 (96)
129 (206)
160 (256)
299 (478)
Coldfoot
259 (414)
175 (280)
119 (190)
60 (96)
•
69 (110)
100 (160)
239 (382)
Atigun Pass
328 (525)
244 (390)
188 (301)
129 (206)
69 (110)
•
31 (50)
170 (272)
Galbraith Lake
359 (574)
275 (440)
219 (350)
160 (256)
100 (160)
31 (50)
•
139 (222)
Deadhorse
498 (797)
414 (662)
358 (573)
299 (478)
239 (382)
170 (272)
139 (222)
•
6
Road Tips
Frequently Asked Questions
Car Trouble
How long does it take
to make the trip?
When is the best
time to visit?
Much depends on weather,
road conditions, road construction, and your own interests.
The roundtrip to Prudhoe Bay
and back demands at least four
days. Under good conditions,
expect the following driving
times from Fairbanks to:
Yukon River
3 hours
Arctic Circle
5 hours
Coldfoot
6 hours
Atigun Pass
8 hours
Deadhorse
13+ hours
Factor in an additional 1-2
hours per day for rest stops,
wildlife viewing, construction
delays, and bad weather.
A late May trip offers a chance
to see thousands of migrating
birds, but snow may still cover
the ground. From June until
mid-July wildflowers brighten
the tundra and caribou congregate along the Coastal Plain.
Mid-August brings rain, cool
days, frosty nights, and the
northern lights. Brilliant
autumn colors peak around
mid-August on the North
Slope, late August in the
Brooks Range, and early
September south of the Yukon
River. Snow begins to fly by
late August or early September.
Can I drive, walk
or cycle to the
Arctic Ocean?
Does the highway
close in the winter?
If your car breaks down, get off the road as far as possible
and set flares. Towing services are available in Fairbanks,
Coldfoot (907-678-3500) or Deadhorse (907-659-3308). You
will need to provide credit card information by cell phone
(near Fairbanks or Deadhorse), otherwise by satellite phone
or in person if you can arrange for a ride.
CB Radios
Truckers and road workers monitor Channel 19. With a
CB you can ask them if it’s safe to pass or tell them when
it’s safe to pass you. In poor visibility, you can warn
oncoming trucks if there are other vehicles close behind
you. You can communicate with flaggers, pilot cars, and
heavy equipment operators.
Emergency
Be prepared for minor emergencies. In a critical emergency,
use a CB radio to call for help and relay a message to the
State Troopers. If you are in cell phone range (Fairbanks
or Deadhorse) you can call the Troopers at 800-811-0911.
It may be many hours before help arrives.
Rental Cars
Many rental car agreements prohibit driving on the Dalton
Highway and other gravel roads. Violating the rental car
agreement can be very expensive, especially in the event
of a malfunction or accident.
Repairs
Prepare to be self-sufficient. Limited tire and repair
services are available at only two service stations between
Fairbanks and Deadhorse—a distance of 500 miles (800
km). They can have parts delivered from Fairbanks, but
that’s expensive.
Fueling up in Deadhorse.
NO. Public access ends at
Deadhorse, about 8 miles (13
km) from the ocean. Security
gates on the access roads are
guarded 24 hours a day and
permits for individuals to
travel on their own are not
available. There is only one
authorized tour provider.
Reservations must be made at
least 24 hours in advance. See
back page for information.
Are the bugs
really that bad?
YES! Hordes of mosquitoes
emerge in mid-June and last
into August. Biting flies and
gnats last into September.
Insects are worst on calm days
and in low, wetland areas.
Hike and camp on ridges or
wide gravel bars along rivers
where a breeze may provide
relief. Insect repellents
containing DEET are most
effective. A head net and bug
jacket are essential if you plan
on any outdoor activities.
No. The road remains open for
trucks hauling supplies to the
oilfields and camps. Although
the highway is maintained
year-round, in winter services
of any kind are only available
in Coldfoot (MP 175) and
Deadhorse (MP 414). Winter
driving conditions are
extremely hazardous. Drivers
face snow, ice, wind, whiteouts,
and dangerous cold with
windchills to -70° F (-57° C).
Travel between late October
and early April is not advised.
Dwarf birch
in autumn.
7
Points of Interest
Hess Creek Overlook (MP* 21)
At MP 86.5, turn west and follow an access road uphill
to an active gravel pit for an excellent view of the Yukon
Flats National Wildlife Refuge to the east. Watch out for
heavy equipment.
Photo by Whitney Root
This pullout looks over Hess Creek meandering west to
meet the Yukon River. In 2003, the Erickson Creek Fire
burned almost 118,000 acres (47,200 ha) in this area.
86-Mile Overlook
Yukon River (MP 56)
The mighty Yukon River winds nearly 2,000 miles (3,200
km) from Canada to the Bering Sea. Athabascan people
first traveled this river in birchbark canoes. During the
gold rush, wood-fired sternwheelers ferried gold seekers
and supplies for trading posts. Today, Yukon River residents use motorboats in summer and snowmachines in
winter to travel this natural highway.
Finger Mountain Wayside (MP 98)
Stop at Finger Mountain to take in the panoramic views,
explore the alpine tundra, and stroll the half-mile
interpretive trail. Expect strong winds on this high ridge.
Arctic Circle Wayside (MP 115)
Take a break at BLM’s Yukon Crossing Visitor Contact Station,
located on the right just after crossing the bridge. Volunteers are
there to assist daily in summer. A short walk takes you to viewing
decks on the riverbank.
Follow the side road a short distance to the Arctic Circle
sign and viewing deck with interpretive displays. Enjoy
your lunch in the picnic area or drive the side road
one-half mile uphill to camp in the BLM campground.
(Renovation work possibly ongoing summer 2020). Call
907-474-2200 for potential closures.
5 Mile (MP 60)
Public campground, one of four operated by the BLM
along the Dalton Highway. It is near an artesian well
with potable water and the only public dump station.
See page 18.
Roller Coaster (MP 75)
North of the Yukon River, travelers encounter a series of
steep hills named by truckers in the early years of pipeline
construction, including Sand Hill (MP 73), Roller Coaster
(MP 75), Mackey Hill (MP 87), Beaver Slide (MP 110),
and Gobblers Knob (MP 132). Truckers today use the
same names.
*MP refers to milepost from the beginning of the Dalton Highway.
8
Gobblers Knob (MP 132)
The pullout here offers an excellent view of the Brooks
Range to the north. To see the midnight sun on solstice,
climb up the hill to the east.
Grayling Lake Wayside (MP 150)
An ancient glacier carved this U-shaped valley and left
a shallow lake. Moose feed on the nutrient-rich aquatic
plants in summer. Charcoal, stone scrapers, and other
artifacts found nearby indicate that Native hunters used
this lookout for thousands of years.
What is the Arctic Circle?
The Arctic Circle is an imaginary line encircling the
Earth at latitude 66°33’ North where the sun does not
set on summer solstice (June 20 or 21) or rise on winter
solstice (December 21 or 22). As you travel farther
north there are more days with 24-hour sunlight in
summer or 24-hour night in winter. At the top of the
world—the North Pole—the sun doesn’t set for 180
days.
Coldfoot (MP 175)
The original gold rush town of Coldfoot was located on
the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River near the mouth of
Slate Creek. It got its name in 1900 when early prospectors
reportedly got “cold feet” and left before winter set in.
Wiseman (MP 189)
Just after crossing the Middle Fork Koyukuk Bridge #1,
take the turnoff to the west and follow the signs 3 miles
(5 km) to the historic village of Wiseman. Established in
1907 when miners discovered gold in nearby Nolan
Creek, the town was once a bustling community. Many
residents today subsist by hunting, trapping, and gardening,
and welcome visitors.
This replica of a miner’s cabin is part of a gold mining exhibit under
development in Coldfoot near the Arctic Interagency Visitor Center.
Marion Creek Campground (MP 180)
This developed campground is operated by the BLM
and offers 27 sites. See page 18 for campground details.
Sukakpak Mountain (MP 204)
A massive wall rising to 4,459 feet (1,338 m) that glows in
the afternoon sun, Sukakpak Mountain is an awe-inspiring
sight. Peculiar ice-cored mounds known as palsas
punctuate the ground at the mountain’s base. “Sukakpak”
is an Iñupiat Eskimo word meaning “marten deadfall.”
Seen from the north, the mountain resembles a carefully
balanced log used to trap marten.
Yellow Dryas
Please note that all buildings in the Wiseman area are private
property. Please stay on the roads.
9
“...We enjoyed the vast panorama of the Brooks Range... endless mountains rising and falling as if the waves of some gigantic ocean
had suddenly become frozen in full motion.”
Robert Marshall, Alaska Wilderness
Farthest North Spruce (MP 235)
As you approach the headwaters of the Dietrich River,
trees grow scarce until they disappear altogether. This last
tall spruce, approximately 273 years old, was killed by a
vandal in 2004.
Chandalar Shelf (MP 237)
Dramatic views encompass the headwaters of the
Chandalar River to the east. The next few miles traverse a
major winter avalanche zone. State transportation workers
stationed here fire artillery shells to clear the slopes above
the highway.
Atigun Pass (MP 244)
You cross the Continental Divide at Atigun Pass (elev. 4,739
ft/1422 m). Rivers south of here flow into the Pacific Ocean
or Bering Sea, while rivers to the north flow into the Arctic
Ocean. Watch for Dall sheep, which are often on the road
or on nearby slopes. Storms can dump snow here even in
June and July.
The University of Alaska Fairbanks established a research
station here in 1975, and conducts studies on arctic
ecosystems and global climate change. Please take care
to avoid their research sites, scattered throughout the
surrounding area. There are no public facilities here and no
camping. Access to the station is by invitation only.
Slope Mountain (MP 300)
Slope Mountain marks the northern boundary of the
Bureau of Land Management public land. From here
north, the Alaska Department of Natural Resources
manages the land around the Dalton Highway and
Prudhoe Bay.
Happy Valley (MP 334)
Originally the site of a pipeline construction camp,
Happy Valley offers easy access to the Sagavanirktok
River as well as room for camping. The airstrip is active,
so avoid camping or parking there.
Photo by AIVC Staff
Galbraith Lake (MP 275)
Toolik Lake (MP 284)
This is all that remains of a large glacial lake that once
occupied the entire Atigun Valley. A short distance to the
east lies the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. To reach the
BLM public camping area follow the access road at MP 275
west for four miles (6.4 km). The last two miles are on an
unimproved road.
Watch for muskoxen near the river from here to the coast. When resting, they look like large, dark humps with a cream-colored “saddle.”
10
Sag River Overlook (MP 348)
A short trail leads to a viewing deck with interpretive
displays. On a clear day, you can see the Philip Smith
Mountains 35 miles (56 km) away. “Sag” is short for
“Sagavanirktok.” The name is Iñupiaq in origin and
translates as “swift current.”
Franklin Bluffs (MP 383)
Iron-rich soils on the far bank of the river give the bluffs
their vivid colors. They are named after Sir John Franklin,
the British explorer who mapped the Arctic coastline and
searched for the Northwest Passage. Scan the gravel bars
along the river for muskoxen and caribou.
Deadhorse (MP 414)
Deadhorse is not a town but an industrial camp that
supports the Prudhoe Bay oilfields. There are few
amenities for visitors. Lodging is extremely limited and
there are no grocery stores, public outhouses, or camping
areas. The public highway ends about eight miles from the
Arctic Ocean. You must be on an authorized tour to visit
the Arctic Ocean. See back page for information.
Visitors encounter the chilly waters of the Arctic Ocean.
Deadhorse vicinity map
Permafrost lies only inches beneath the surface of the Coastal Plain,
creating a bizarre landscape of wetlands and ice-wedge polygons.
From Deadhorse, you travel over permafrost up to 2,000 feet
(600 m) thick. This aerial photo shows caribou on polygonal ground.
Aurora
Hotel
11
Fairbanks to MP 215
Renovation work possibly ongoing summer 2020
12
MP 215 to Deadhorse
13
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(no
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(no public ser vices)
Miners cabin
Coldfoot Coyote
Air
Airstrip Coyote
Coldfoot
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Historico
Coldfoot
Historic
Cemetery
Coldfoot
Cemetery
Arctic Interagency
Arctic
Interagency
Visitor
Center
Visitor
Center
(summer
only)
(summer only)
Coldfoot Camp
Coldfoot Camp
Post Office
Post Office
Tr
Traail
il
Inn at Coldfoot Camp
Inn at Coldfoot Camp
Wiseman
Wiseman
Wiseman
All buildings in Wiseman are private property
All buildings
in Wiseman
unless
otherwise
noted. are private property
unless otherwise noted.
Wiseman Gold Rush Camp
Wiseman
GoldMuseum
Rush Camp
B&B/Mining
B&B/Mining Museum
Boreal Lodging
Boreal Lodging
caribou
caribou
horn
horn
gate
gate
Kalhabuk
Kalhabuk
Prayer
Prayer
Chapel
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Bed &
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Breakfast
Bed
Reakoff
Reakoff
home
moose
home moose
horn
horn
pole
pole
Old
Harry Leonard's Old
Post
Harry Leonard's
Cabin Post
Office
Cabin
Office
Community
Community
Center
Pingle Cabin
Center
Pingle Cabin
Wiseman
Wiseman
Historical
Historical
Museum
Museum
public
public
outhouse
outhouse
Wiseman Trading
Trading
Wiseman
Company
Company
Middle Fork
ForkKoyukuk
KoyukukRiver
River
Middle
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To
An Icebound Land
The low angle of the sun means less heat to combat frigid temperatures. Thus, permanently-frozen ground, or permafrost, lies beneath much of northern Alaska and keeps water close to the surface. Ice creates strange features in arctic
landscapes, some of which you can see along the Dalton Highway.
Pingos look like isolated hills but have thick cores of ice. As groundwater
freezes it forms a lump of ice. As more water migrates inward the lump slowly
grows and forces the ground upwards. Pingos can be decades or thousands of
years old. Open-system pingos arise from artesian water in the warmer Interior:
a tree-covered one lies west of the road at Milepost 32.7. Closed-system pingos
form out of ice beneath old lake beds on the much-colder North Slope.
Frost Mounds look like
Frost mounds at Sukakpak Mountain.
Photo by Dennis R. Green
miniature pingos and also have
Percy Pingo rises south of Deadhorse near
Milepost 376.
cores of ice. Mounds in various
stages occur at Sukakpak
Mountain, Milepost 204. They arise as groundwater moves downslope
through the soil above the permafrost and freezes, pushing up the tundra. Mounds may appear and melt over one or more seasons or last for
many years.
Thermokarsts form when
lenses of underground ice thaw, often after a disturbance such as wildfire, earthquake, clearing ground for construction, or a warming period. Thermokarst
ponds and lakes often have unstable shores with trees or tundra collapsing inwards
along the edge. You can see one west of the highway at Milepost 215.
Ice-wedge polygons form when the
Aerial view of high-centered polygons.
Small thermokarst near the Trans-Alaska
Pipeline.
ground freezes, contracts, and cracks in geometric
patterns. Water seeps into the cracks and over thousands of years, forms thick
wedges of ice that push the soil up into ridges. If the ice in the ridges melts they
subside, leaving high-centered polygons. Look for geometrically patterned
ground alongside the highway
north of Galbraith Lake. Polygons
are especially prominent around
Deadhorse.
Aufeis, or overflow, forms on streams during winter when the channel
ice thickens, constricting the stream flow beneath. The water is forced
through cracks onto the surface where it freezes. Over the winter, these
sheets of water freeze into thick layers that can fill river valleys and last
into August.
Aufeis at Galbraith Lake.
To learn more
Permafrost and ice-related features in Alaska are clearly explained and illustrated in Permafrost: A Guide to Frozen
Ground in Transition by Neil Davis. This book is available at the Arctic Interagency Visitor Center in Coldfoot (in
summer) and in Fairbanks bookstores.
15
Photo by T. Craig
This Is Bear
Country!
You may encounter bears anywhere along the Elliott and
Dalton highways. Both black and grizzly bears are found
south of the Brooks Range, and grizzlies roam all the
way to the Arctic Ocean. All bears are potentially
dangerous. It is illegal to feed wildlife or leave food where
they can get it. Food-conditioned bears become a threat
to people and frequently must be destroyed.
These tips provide minimum guidelines. Learn as
much as you can about being safe around bears!
Avoid Encounters
LOOK AND LISTEN: Bears are active both day and
night and may appear anywhere. Fresh tracks and droppings indicate that bears may be close.
DON’T SURPRISE: A startled bear may attack.
MAKE NOISE: Let bears know you’re in the area—
sing, yell, or clap your hands loudly. Bells may be
ineffective. Be especially careful in thick brush or
near noisy streams.
NEVER APPROACH: Stay at least 1/4 mile (400 m)
from any bear. Sows may attack to defend their cubs.
KEEP A CLEAN CAMP: Store food, scented items,
and trash in airtight containers away from your tent.
If You Encounter a Bear
DO NOT RUN! Running may elicit a chase response.
If the bear does not see you, backtrack or detour quickly
and quietly away. Give the bear plenty of room. If the
bear sees you, back away slowly. Speak in a low, calm
voice while waving your arms slowly above your head.
IF A BEAR APPROACHES stand still and keep your
pack on. Remain still until the bear turns, then slowly
back off.
IF A GRIZZLY MAKES PHYSICAL CONTACT,
PLAY DEAD. Lie flat on your stomach and lace your
fingers behind your neck. Your pack will help protect
your back.
IF A BLACK BEAR ATTACKS, FIGHT BACK.
16
Bears often appear tame but are unpredictable. Keep your distance!
Should I carry a firearm?
Firearms are permitted for personal protection in the
Dalton Highway Corridor, although they are prohibited for
sport hunting within 5 miles (8 km) either side of the highway. If you are inexperienced and cannot load, aim, and
fire accurately in an emergency, you probably should not
carry a firearm. An injured bear may attack more violently
or create a problem for other people.
Does pepper spray work?
Pepper sprays have been used successfully to deter bears.
Most sprays have an effective range of about 30 feet (9 m),
but are greatly affected by wind. Spray should not be used
like insect repellent—don’t spread it on your clothes or
equipment. Before taking it on an airplane, tell the pilot so
it can be stored safely.
Wolves may approach people along the Dalton. In 2006,
two people were chased and one was bitten. Some
incidents appear to involve food-conditioned wolves.
Never approach or feed wolves. Do not walk pets in an
area where you see wolves or fresh wolf sign—wolves
may act aggressively toward pets, even those on a leash.
For more information go to www.adfg.alas