Mount Charleston

Rock Climbing Inventory

brochure Mount Charleston - Rock Climbing Inventory
Mt. Charleston Wilderness Area Rock Climbing Inventory Statistics: Area: Walls Routes Bolts Anchors The Hood 11 108 621 80 The Glass House 1 9 60 7 The Ice House 1 18 112 17 13 135 793 104 TOTAL: 132/135 routes field verified – 97.8% 6 new routes not found in literature. Route information and locations were identified based upon information gathered from Islands in the Sky and Las Vegas Limestone climbing guidebooks. Seven routes, including one fixed line located at The Glass House, were discovered that were not identified in the literature. Bolt and anchor counts were field verified for all routes in Mt. Charleston with the exception of Unknown Project #3 and A Finish at The Hood and Satellite at The Ice House. The Hood Rock Climbing Inventory Statistics: Wall: # of Routes # of Bolts # of Anchors Gorillas in the Mist Wall 7 24 6 Infectious Cave 12 70 6 Infectious Slab 3 7 2 Small Buttress 3 3 3 Walk By Slab 12 70 9 Corrosion Cave 6 31 5 Pine Tree Ledge 9 67 11 South Central 20 116 16 The Soul Cave 10 37 3 Soul Slab 10 59 6 Compton Cave 16 137 11 108 621 80 TOTAL: 106/108 routes field verified – 98% 6 new routes not found in literature. Route information and locations were identified based upon information gathered from Islands in the Sky (pgs. 51-73) and Las Vegas Limestone (pgs. 15-32) climbing guides. Exact bolt and anchor counts were obtained for all routes by field survey with the exception of A Finish on Soul Slab and South Central Project #1. We were unable to view the tops of these routes from the ground and reported only the hardware we were able to see. The Hood Access: The Hood is accessed by starting at the Trail Canyon trailhead (fig. 1) and hiking roughly 500 yards up the trail. A climber’s trail branches off to the left (fig. 2) shortly after a sign proclaiming the area as designated Wilderness. Hike up this path approximately 150 yards until you reach the base of The Hood at the Corrosion Cave. There is a fairly well used access trail running the length of The Hood from Gorillas in the Mist Wall to Compton Cave. Fig. 1 (above): Trail Canyon trailhead – detour around construction area. Fig. 2 (right): Climber trail accessing the hood. Split left from main trail just past Wilderness Area sign. The Hood Gorillas in the Mist Wall: Fig 1. (below): This is the far left wall at the Southwest end of The Hood and at the start of the user created access trail running the length of the area. Routes Bolts Anchors 7 24 6 1 new route not found in literature. 100% field verified. Infectious Cave: Fig. 2 (below): Located to the East of Gorillas in the Mist Wall just past a large pine tree. Routes Bolts Anchors 12 70 6 3 new routes not found in literature. 100% field verified. The Hood Infectious Slab: Fig 1. (right): Just east of Infectious Cave is Infectious Slab. A narrow, low-angle buttress with only three routes. Routes Bolts Anchors 3 7 2 100% field verified Small Buttress: Fig 2. (left): A short buttress behind a pine tree, this crag is west of Walk By Slab and separated from Infectious Slab to the east by a short walk past a slope leading up to several undeveloped, blank faces. Routes Bolts Anchors 3 3 3 1 new route not found in literature 100% field verified The Hood Walk By Slab: Fig. 1 (right): This larger slab is just west of Small Buttress and just around the east corner of Corrosion Cave. Routes Bolts Anchors 12 70 9 100% field verified Corrosion Cave: Fig. 2 (left): This crag is directly at the top of the access trail from Trail Canyon. Head left (west) to reach Gorillas in the Mist Wall, Infectious Cave and Slab, Small Buttress, and Walk By Slab. Hike right (east) to reach Pine Tree Ledge, South Central, The Soul Cave and Slab, and Compton Cave. Routes Bolts Anchors 6 31 5 100% field verified The Hood Pine Tree Ledge: Fig. 1 (below): To reach the climbs at this wall head west from the top of the access trail and scramble up a short slab (15 ft.) to a ledge with a large pine tree on the right end. Routes Bolts Anchors 9 67 11 100% field verified South Central: Fig. 2 (below): Right of Pine Tree Ledge is South Central. A long, vertical face stretching to the east, this is the largest crag at The Hood and spans nearly 75 meters from Pine Tree Ledge to The Soul Cave. Routes Bolts Anchors 20 116 16 1 new route not found in literature 95% field verified The Hood The Soul Cave: Fig. 1 (right): This smaller cave marks the east end of South Central. Routes begin at both sides of the cave and crisscross as they climb up and over to the face above. Routes Bolts Anchors 10 37 3 100% field verified Soul Slab: Fig. 2 (left): A narrow buttress separating The Soul Cave to the west from Compton Cave to the east. Routes Bolts Anchors 10 59 6 90% field verified The Hood Compton Cave: Fig 1: (below): This is the huge cave at the far east end of The Hood. The access trail ends just past this cave and overlooks the Trail Canyon Trail below. Routes Bolts Anchors 16 137 11 100% field verified The Glass House Rock climbing inventory statistics: Wall: The Glass House TOTAL: # of Routes 9 # of Bolts # of Anchors 60 7 9 60 9/9 routes field verified – 100% 7 Route information and locations were identified based upon information gathered from Islands in the Sky (pgs. 96-97) and Las Vegas Limestone (pgs. 41-44) climbing guides. Exact bolt and anchor counts were obtained for all routes by field survey and includes a fixed-rope line with single bolt attachment points at either end. This rope allows access from the right side of the wall to the left (north to south) as it traverses over a steep section of the access ledge. The Glass House Access: To reach The Glass House begin at a trailhead just south of the pull-out for Robber’s Roost on Hwy 158 (fig. 1). Hike up a short way along an old section of road and turn west (left) when a trail branches up through a wooded gully (fig. 2). This trail passes through a pine forest and passes several primitive campsites before entering a rocky wash. Turn left again to head south up a rocky hillside (fig. 3) that leads directly to The Glass House. This trial is faint at best and eventually disappears altogether as it climbs higher into a talus slope. Fig. 1 (above): Parking area for access to The Glass House. Notice the first part of the trail is along old Hwy. 158. Fig. 2 (above): Trail heading east into wooded campsite area. Fig. 3 (left): Trail heading south up slope to access The Glass House. The Glass House The Glass House: The wall is divided into a right and left side by a fixed line that traverses over a steep section of the ledge that accesses both sections of the area (Fig. 2). Fig. 1 (left): The right side of The Glass House climbing area. Fig. 2 (right): Fixed line connecting the north and south ends of The Glass House climbing area. The Ice House Rock climbing inventory statistics: Wall: The Ice House TOTAL: # of Routes 18 # of Bolts # of Anchors 112 17 18 112 17/18 routes field verified – 94% 17 Route information and locations were identified based upon information gathered from the Islands in the Sky (pgs. 98-99) climbing guide. Exact bolt and anchor counts were obtained for all routes by field survey with the exception of Satellite. This route was located up on a ledge and prevented us from viewing the top of the route from the ground. The reported number of bolts and anchors reflects those that were visually confirmed and those that are reported to exist in the climbing guide. The Ice House Access: Accessing The Ice House requires driving up private roads near the top of Hwy. 158 just past mile marker 5. Turn off of the highway at the parking area for the archery range belonging to a summer camp located further off the road. Drive up through several meandering 4x4 roads until you reach a gate preventing further access. Continue on foot past the gate through several trailer campsites and building lots until you reach the top of the road. From here hike southwest along a sparsely forested ridge to the base of a scree covered slope. The trail is extremely faint. As you move higher up the slope the trail turns west at the base of a cliff. Follow the cliff to the west until you reach The Ice House. This faint trail at the top of the road allows access to The Ice House. The ridge continues southwest through the trees. The Ice House can just be seen through the trees in the upper-right of the picture. The Ice House Fig. 1 (above): The Ice House as seen from the top of the road. Climbing is located all along the white cliff band that slopes down and right through the middle of the picture. Fig. 2 (right): Looking along the length of The Ice House from the far east end.

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