Rainbow Mountain

Rock Climbing Inventory

brochure Rainbow Mountain - Rock Climbing Inventory
Rainbow Wilderness Area Rock Climbing Inventory Statistics: Area: Walls Routes Bolts Anchors Willow Springs 11 107 147 23 Icebox Canyon 11 71 188 59 Pine Creek Canyon 28 194 264 173 Juniper Canyon 10 66 307 153 Oak Creek Canyon 14 60 274 104 Mt. Wilson 8 26 129 53 First Creek Canyon 7 31 39 23 Black Velvet Canyon 11 72 474 147 Whiskey Peak 6 58 154 44 Mud Springs Canyon 3 5 18 8 Windy Peak 4 20 12 5 Southern Outcrops 3 36 7 7 116 746 2013 799 TOTAL: 275/746 routes field verified – 36% 30 new routes not found in literature Route information and locations were identified based upon information gathered from Red Rock Canyon: A Climbing Guide, Rock Climbing: Red Rocks, Red Rocks Climbing, and Red Rock Odyssey and www.climbingredrocks.com. 33 new routes were discovered that were not mentioned in the literature review. This included two fixed lines that provided access to the Western Spaces Wall in Black Velvet Canyon. The hardware counts for the majority of the climbs in the Rainbow Wilderness were collected from literary sources. Field verification of this data was only possible on 275 of the 746 routes inventoried in the Rainbow Wilderness. In other words, only 36% of the total hardware data in the Rainbow Wilderness could be confirmed by field survey observations. This should be taken into consideration when making an estimate of the overall accuracy of the bolt and anchor inventory data. Willow Springs Rock Climbing Inventory Statistics: Wall: # of Routes # of Bolts # of Anchors Nadia’s Niche 5 0 1 N’Plus Ultra 6 9 0 Bigfoot Wall 10 33 4 Upper Tier & Bighorn Buttress 8 12 5 Lower Tier 20 39 4 Ragged Edges Cliff 28 28 4 Graduate Cliff 4 10 3 The Case Face 6 8 1 The Egg 1 0 0 Mossy Ledges 2 1 0 Sumo Greatness Slab 17 7 1 107 147 23 TOTAL: 37/107 routes field verified – 34% 1 new route not found in literature Route information and locations were identified based upon information gathered from Red Rock Canyon: A Climbing Guide (pgs. 178-197), Rock Climbing: Red Rocks (pgs. 169-182), Red Rocks Climbing (pgs. 129-133) and www.climbingredrocks.com. Sumo Greatness Slab, The Case Face and the Bigfoot Wall were the only walls that were completely field verified for bolts and anchors. The climbs on the other 9 walls in this area were verified to exist but the nature and location of many of these climbs prohibited an accurate hardware count. The route on The Egg was field verified but GPS data was not collected for this wall. It was determined that the traditional nature of the climb and its relative lack of use did not constitute the need for the survey team to undertake the dangerous approach necessary to reach the wall. Willow Springs Access: Take the Scenic Loop Road from the BLM Visitor’s Center for approximately 7.3 miles until the sign for Willow Springs. For Sumo Greatness Slab, Mossy Ledges, The Graduate Cliff and The Case Face drive to the and of the Willow Springs road and park in the dirt parking area just past the picnic area mentioned in Willow Springs East. The climbs on Sumo Greatness Slab are found on both sides of the petroglyphs discovered in this area and accessed by the Petroglyph Wall Trail. The Graduate Cliff, The Case Face and Mossy Ledges are accessed by a trail (pictured right) heading southwest from the wash paralleling the road toward the Ragged Edges Cliff. Follow the trail a short distance then hike up a gully to the northwest to reach Mossy Ledges. Accessing the Case Face requires you to continue following the trail toward the base of Ragged Edges, then turn north (right) up a talus slope to an area above the cliff band. Stay on the trail and turn north (right) to the reach the Case Face or follow the trail left (south) to the Graduate Cliff. To reach the remaining walls park at the Hidden Falls/Lost Creek parking area (pictured left), the first parking area on the Willow Springs road. Ragged Edges Cliff is accessed by hiking the Children’s Discovery Trail (pictured right) through the wash then climb a heavily braided network of trails over a small mound before reaching the base of the cliff. The Bigfoot Wall, Lower Tier and N’Plus Ultra areas can be reached by hiking the Hidden Falls/Lost Creek Trail. After crossing the wash you come to a wooden platform. Veer left from the main trail just past the platform to reach the Bigfoot Wall. N’Plus Ultra is accessed by turning south just before reaching the Bigfoot Wall and bushwhacking through a wash and scrub oak along the base of the eastfacing cliff. Follow a very faint trail to reach the climbs. The Lower Tier is located at the end of the main trail on the cliffs to the left and right of Hidden Falls. The Upper Tier and Bighorn Buttress are accessed by scrambling over ledges from either to the north of N’Plus Ultra or the top of Ragged Edges Cliff. The final area in Willow Springs, Nadia’s Niche, is best reached by hiking the SMYC Trail from the Icebox Canyon parking area. Once below the climbs turn left (west) and take a faint trail up the slope to the climbing area. Willow Springs Nadia’s Niche: Fig. 1 (right): Nadia’s Niche is reached by hiking the SMYC Trail from the Icebox Canyon parking area. Once you see this formation look for a faint trail heading directly up the slope to access the climbs. A geocache was discovered here near the campsite pictured below. Routes Bolts Anchors 5 0 1 0% field verified N’Plus Ultra: Fig. 2 (below/left): N’Plus Ultra is the area to the right and left of the white pillar pictured here. Access these climbs by approaching the Bigfoot Wall then turning south to bushwhack and hike a faint trail through a wash to the base of the cliff. Routes Bolts Anchors 6 9 0 0% field verified Willow Springs Bigfoot Wall: Routes Bolts Anchors Fig. 1 (above): The Bigfoot Wall is the varnished wall found 33 4 just behind the wooden platform on the Lost Springs/Hidden Falls 10 Trail. Cut left on a short trail to the base of the cliff. 100% field verified Bighorn Buttress/Upper Tier: Routes Bolts Anchors Fig. 2 (above): The Bighorn Buttress and Upper Tier are access by scrambling over ledges from the top of either Ragged 8 12 5 Edges Cliff from the north or N’Plus Ultra area from the south. 0% field verified The climbs ascends this large feature above Hidden Falls. Willow Springs Lower Tier: Fig. 1 (above/right): Lower Tier has many climbs to the right and left of Hidden Falls pictured in the center of this photo. Access this area by hiking the Hidden Falls/Lost Creek Trail to the end. Routes Bolts Anchors 20 39 4 0% field verified 1 new route not found in literature Ragged Edges Cliff: Fig. 2 (below/left): This popular area is reached from the Lost Creek/Hidden Falls parking area. Hike the Children’s Discovery Trail through the wash before hiking one of several, heavily braided trails that access the cliff. Climbs ascend the low cliff band behind the small mound pictured in the foreground. Routes Bolts Anchors 28 28 7% field verified 4 Willow Springs Graduate Cliff: Fig. 1 (right): The climbs here ascend the right facing corner and face pictured here. Access them by hiking a southwest trail from the parking area at the end of Willow Springs road. Hike to the base of the Ragged Edges Cliff’s north end then continue up a talus slope before turning left (south) to reach the cliff. Routes Bolts Anchors 4 10 3 0% field verified Routes Bolts Anchors 6 8 1 100% field verified Case Face: Fig. 2 (right): The Case Face is reached by following the approach to the Graduate Cliff. However, one must veer north, away from the Graduate Cliff, when the trail splits above the talus slope to reach the Case Face. Climbs ascend the smooth black and white face with the splitter crack running down its center. Willow Springs Mossy Ledges: Fig. 1 (right): The Mossy Ledges area is around the corner to the north from the Case Face and Graduate Cliff areas. Follow the same trail from the parking area then bushwhack/scramble up an obvious gully running northwest to the base of the climbs. The two large pine trees mark the base of the routes. The graffiti pictured below was discovered on the approach to Mossy Ledges. Routes Bolts Anchors 2 1 0 0% field verified Sumo Greatness Slabs: Fig. 2 (right): Also referred to as Children’s Crag, these climbs are found on both sides of the petroglyph site at Willow Springs. Access the climbs by hiking the Petroglyph Trail and moving to the base of the cliff. Four climbs were established directly over the archeological site but have since been closed for obvious reasons. Routes Bolts Anchors 17 7 100% field verified 1 Icebox Canyon Rock Climbing Inventory Statistics: Wall: # of Routes # of Bolts # of Anchors Sunnyside Crag 22 11 12 Hot Time Area 5 0 0 Buffalo Wall 3 100 17 Hidden Wall 1 0 0 South Wall – Quiggle’s Wiggle 1 0 0 South Wall – Weenie Juice 1 0 1 Refrigerator Wall 10 47 12 Smears for Fears 5 13 3 Upper Bridge Mountain 2 0 0 Frigid Air Buttress 8 12 7 The Necromancer 8 2 4 Tango Towers 5 3 3 71 188 59 TOTAL: 28/71 routes field verified – 39% Route information and locations were identified based upon information gathered from Red Rock Canyon: A Climbing Guide (pgs. 199-223), Rock Climbing: Red Rocks (pgs. 186-207), Red Rock Odyssey (pgs. 138-151), and www.climbingredrocks.com. Icebox Canyon is where we begin to see the type of long, traditional routes Red Rock Canyon is known for. Exact hardware counts are impossible to collect from the ground on these types of climbs. We were, however, able to verify the hardware on the climbs at Hot Time Area, Quiggle’s Wiggle, Smears for Fears, and The Necromancer. The bolt and anchor data for the remaining areas was obtained from the literature review. Routes on the Hidden Wall and Upper Bridge Mountain were not field surveyed due to the dangerous nature of the approach and relative lack of popularity of these areas. Icebox Canyon Access: Take the Scenic Loop Road from the BLM Visitor’s Center for approximately 8 miles until the sign for Icebox Canyon appears on your right. The climbs for this area are all accessed by hiking the Icebox Canyon trail into the canyon. Climbs are located on both the north and south walls as you hike in. The Buffalo Wall and Hidden Wall are reached after strenuous 5th class scrambling up the north fork of the canyon, well beyond were most visitors turn back upon reaching the “end” of the canyon. Fig. 1: Pictured above is the view of Icebox Canyon Trail from the parking area as it enters the canyon to the west. Icebox Canyon Sunnyside Crag: Fig. 1 (right): Sunnyside Crag is the first climbing area on the north side of the canyon as you hike the Icebox Canyon Trail. After approximately 30 minutes of hiking take a side trail that accesses the Sunnyside Crag. Look for a large boulder and pine tree under a roof marking the west end of the crag. Routes Bolts Anchors 22 11 12 36% field verified Hot Time Area: Fig. 2 (below): This distinctive roof feature is located past the Sunnyside Crag on the north side of the canyon. Hike into the canyon until you cross a blockage of several large boulders. Scramble up and around the boulders before reaching ledges that bring you to the Hot Time Area climbs. Routes Bolts Anchors 5 0 100% field verified 0 Icebox Canyon Buffalo Wall: Fig. 1 (right): The Buffalo Wall is the massive feature at the end of the north fork of Icebox Canyon. The name comes from the distinctive varnished rock that looks like a buffalo when viewed from a distance. Dangerous and committing 5th class scrambling approaches this climb. Hike up Icebox Canyon to the point where the north fork splits off to the right. Begin picking your way over boulders and ledges, ascending fixed lines, and climbing 5th class rock to reach the base of the wall. Routes Bolts Anchors 3 100 17 0% field verified South Wall – Quiggle’s Wiggle: Fig. 2 (left): Hike up Icebox Canyon to the point where the north fork splits off to the right. Veer left to continue along the south fork until reaching the end above a pool and waterfall. Quiggle’s Wiggle climbs the wall at the end of the canyon to the left of the waterfall. Routes Bolts Anchors 1 0 0 100% field verified Icebox Canyon South Wall – Weenie Juice: Fig. 1 (left): Hike into Icebox Canyon as you would to approach Quiggle’s Wiggle. Before reaching the end of the south fork of the canyon you will see this prominent, right-facing arch high on the South Wall. The climb ascends the crack and flake as it moves up and arches right. Routes Bolts Anchors 1 0 1 0% field verified Routes Bolts Anchors 10 47 12 0% field verified Refrigerator Wall: Fig. 2 (below): The Refrigerator Wall is reached by hiking into Icebox Canyon past Sunnyside Crag. A little more than 30 minutes from the parking area this wall rises up on the south side of the canyon. Access it by scrambling up to the base of the cliff from the wash. Icebox Canyon Smears for Fears: Fig. 1 (right): The Smears for Fears area climbs the large buttress to the east of the Refrigerator Wall. Hike into the canyon until it narrows and Sunnyside Crag is on your right (north) side. Cross the wash and scramble up to the base of this varnished, north-facing wall. Routes Bolts Anchors 5 13 3 100% field verified Routes Bolts Anchors 8 12 7 12% field verified Frigid Air Buttress: Fig. 2 (left): Just east of Smears for Fears is a large amphitheatre formation on the south side of the canyon. The buttress that makes up its west wall is the Frigid Air Buttress. Hike into the canyon on the Icebox Canyon Trail and split off to the south before you reach the access for Smears for Fears. Boulder hop and scramble into the amphitheatre to reach the climbs. Icebox Canyon Routes Bolts Anchors 8 2 4 100% field verified The Necromancer: Fig. 1 (above): The Necromancer is the northwest facing wall directly across the amphitheatre formation described above for the Frigid Air Buttress. Hike into Icebox Canyon until you are directly across from this varnished wall. Leave the trail and hike through a wash and up a slope to reach the base of the wall. Tango Towers: Fig. 2 (right): The Tango Towers are large pinnacle formations found high on the southeast side of the amphitheatre formation described above. Dangerous, expedition style hiking takes you to the base of these climbs. Hike from the main Icebox Canyon Trail and move up and into the tower formations as best you can. Technical gear is recommended. Routes Bolts Anchors 5 3 0% field verified 3

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